Well we’ve been in Ireland a week now, so I suppose it’s time for another update.
We had booked two nights in our hotel in Cork, hoping that we might have found a place to live within that time. We didn’t get to Cork til after 2pm on the first day, though, and found that very few people (especially estate agents) are willing to show properties as soon as we call. The response is usually “sure I can show you… how’s 4 pm tomorrow?”. So we arrived on Tuesday afternoon, saw a few places in Cork City Center on Wednesday and several on Thursday, and by Thursday night we hadn’t seen anything that we really liked. Most of the places in our price range were much lower quality than we had expected or hoped for. The nice thing about city center is that it is, obviously, central, and we can get a lot of buses quite easily. However, with Chris working from home and me not having any idea where I’ll be working, we don’t really have any reason to need to be in the city center. So we decided to start looking out in the suburbs, particularly in an area called Douglas, which is only a five or ten minute bus ride out of city center. We quickly found that we can get waaaay more for our money there, but most of the available properties were outside of the center of Douglas, making them more difficult to get to by bus.
On Friday we met up with a property manager in Douglas named Mark, who showed us three places. One was directly in the center of Douglas village, one was a little further out but still fairly accessible by bus, and the third was a ten minute drive out of Douglas. This last one, instead of being part of an apartment complex, was a ‘granny flat’ at the back of a farmhouse, surrounded by fields, trees, gardens, horses, and so much space. At first we kind of wrote it off for being so far out of town, since we had no plans to have a car while we’re here. But of all the places we had looked at, none were so appealing that we said, “Yes, this is absolutely where we will live.” Also, most landlords seem fairly attached to the idea of a one-year lease, which would be a bit of a problem for us if I don’t get a decent job and we end up leaving before our one-year visas are up. The owners of this ‘granny flat’ apparently are very open to a six-month or indefinite contract, are asking less for this place than anyone else is, and seem super nice. Plus we can get a car for under 500 Euro. And yes, we’ve looked into insurance and taxes and if we get a small enough car, they seem quite reasonable. Nothing is official yet since things don’t happen over the weekend here, but we are 90% sure that we will end up living in this farmhouse/flat in semi-rural Ireland.
So that led us to start looking for a wee car to drive while we are here. The idea of driving a car in a country where everything road-related is backwards to Canada is somewhat terrifying to me, but I’ll learn. If my mom can do it, I can. We’ve found a couple of possibilities of very wee (i.e., 1.1L engines) cars for sale, but have had some minor issues getting to see them, as they tend to be located in tiny villages that only have semi-regular bus service. For example, today we went out to Carrigtwohill, which is actually rather large by Irish standards, but found once we got there that there had been a miscommunication and the person we were supposed to be meeting was not even home today. Being Sunday before noon, nothing except the local grocery store was open, so we spent two hours drinking tea in a bus shelter, since it was also pouring rain.
I feel like I need to describe the decor of the granny flat that we will likely be renting, but I really really cannot. I’ll post pictures when we can get them, but even that just won’t capture the essence of Irish granny-ness of the place. It was especially shocking after having seen the other two places in Douglas that were furnished in a very clean, modern, fairly minimalist way. Then we walk into this farmhouse, which probably has ten different wallpaper patterns, enough china to serve a family of twenty, knicknacks on every surface, and a stair lift (motorized chair to get you up the stairs if you can’t walk). That said, it’s very tidy, cozy and spacious (two bedrooms, three bathrooms, good-sized kitchen, living room and sun room!) and the farmland outside it is beautiful. Like I said, words do not do it justice. There will be photos. We are hoping to be in by Tuesday or Wednesday, if everything goes well.
Otherwise, we’ve wandered the city a bunch, been out to a few yacht clubs, and we visited the heritage museum in Cobh today, for lack of anything better to do. It was actually pretty interesting. We are looking forward to buying groceries and not having to find a restaurant to eat in three times a day.